Unclewolverine
Well-Known Member
I've had lots of side interests through the years but the forever heart of everything has always been cars/ bikes. Anybody else?
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Anyone's special interest cars or motorcycles?
- Thread starter Unclewolverine
- Start date
Unclewolverine
Well-Known Member
Wish I had the money, I was about to build a 65 spitfire and wanted to do a NA bridge ported 13b rotary in it but the car ended up being too rotted out and funds were too scarce. Currently ride a 2000 BMW R1200C, (James bond bike from die another day,) and drive a right hand drive 1995 XJ jeep cherokee for mail delivery. Looking for a 70s yamaha DT 400 or 250 so I can off road with the kids.
I still have my '70 OSSA 250 American Enduro
1970 OSSA 250
This image was prior to reglassing the fiberglas fuel tank.
Paper thin by design, it was cracked from riding it and used to fuel burn my inner thighs, so we doctored it up and left it as a raw repair.
It's a lil ugly, but no longer leaks.
A few years ago, I refitted it with two home made brass fuel petcocks I used to replace the leaky old plastic and zinc ones.
I custom machined two metric bolts for fitment to the tank on each side, then made counterbored aluminum washers with leather gaskets for the final seal to the tank exterior.
Here is one of them fitted with the same type of fuel barb that was used on the outlet side of the brass valves chosen for the bike:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/ossa-250-fuel-outlet-fitting.10418/
The off the shelf bolts were relieved under the heads for the leather to seal to them and I used teflon thread dope for the final assembly:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/fuel-petcock-mounting-assembly.10416/
The crappy two bung fuel inlet on the carbonator was corrupted, so I machined one out of brass for the replacement. The inlet was drilled and two custom made hose barbs were soldered to it.
The tank is split in the middle and has two outlets on it, but they do cross over at the top if you just need a splash more to lessen a walk
I need to replace the clutch lining in it because it's running a bit thin, but it is still available.
The brakes could stand some new friction surfaces too, but I will likely have to buy lining and bond them myself.
In all, because it is still in as found condition, I'm only doing what needs done to keep the old girl alive.
1970 OSSA 250
This image was prior to reglassing the fiberglas fuel tank.
Paper thin by design, it was cracked from riding it and used to fuel burn my inner thighs, so we doctored it up and left it as a raw repair.
It's a lil ugly, but no longer leaks.
A few years ago, I refitted it with two home made brass fuel petcocks I used to replace the leaky old plastic and zinc ones.
I custom machined two metric bolts for fitment to the tank on each side, then made counterbored aluminum washers with leather gaskets for the final seal to the tank exterior.
Here is one of them fitted with the same type of fuel barb that was used on the outlet side of the brass valves chosen for the bike:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/ossa-250-fuel-outlet-fitting.10418/
The off the shelf bolts were relieved under the heads for the leather to seal to them and I used teflon thread dope for the final assembly:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/fuel-petcock-mounting-assembly.10416/
The crappy two bung fuel inlet on the carbonator was corrupted, so I machined one out of brass for the replacement. The inlet was drilled and two custom made hose barbs were soldered to it.
The tank is split in the middle and has two outlets on it, but they do cross over at the top if you just need a splash more to lessen a walk
I need to replace the clutch lining in it because it's running a bit thin, but it is still available.
The brakes could stand some new friction surfaces too, but I will likely have to buy lining and bond them myself.
In all, because it is still in as found condition, I'm only doing what needs done to keep the old girl alive.
Last edited:
The Gnarley-Davidson project:
I started out with another one of these:
Magazine pose
The one in the picture was a very fresh restoration project I carried to the street for the picture shoot in order to not dirty the tires from rolling it there.
It was entered into a local motorcycle show later that day.
I gathered up another one for a two stroke engine conversion then found one that had already been built for the cost of the engine kit.
Fat assed Paul Tuttle from OCC once sat on it too, when the builder and his boy took it to his shop. I might throw the seat away cuz it prolly has cooties now
It was damned near un-rideable and unsafe with only crappy pinch rear brakes and always tossed the chain, so I set out to improve it.
First up was a better rear sprocket mount thru bolted to the wheel hub that didn't rely on the spokes to keep it in place:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/hub-and-sprocket.7904/
The original design used three stamped plates and crappy old muffler hanger rubber sandwiched over the spokes.
The run out and wow was out of control
The next step was to add a bicycle disc rotor to the front wheel because if you are going to get stupid, you will probably need good brakes
https://www.autismforums.com/media/disc-brake-rotor-adapter-hub.11131/
https://www.autismforums.com/media/stingray-brake-rotor.11130/
This was thru bolted as well.
The engine mount was off center and mounted poorly, so I machined spacers to weld into the lower frame tube to prevent crushing it like it originally was, then moved the bolt holes to better position the unit.
The final drive assembly in the works is a jackshaft design that utilizes a Shimano 3 speed planetary rear hub as a transmission with the rear brake rotor on that same assembly to handle rear braking chores.
Most of that is done, but I've yet to take pix of it because it is just a pile of parts so far.
I have flange mounted pillow bearings for the shaft supports.
Because of the planetary coaster hub, I had to get a pull-starter for it, but oh well, I want top end and that negated a pedaled start
The jackshaft will simplify final drive ratio changes as well until I get the final tuning in order.
The 66cc two stroker has been ported to increase efficiency and I added a reed valve assembly to the inlet to kill off the inversion. I butchered the heck out of the piston and cylinder head too.
Gearhead stuff for sure
Not sure which carb I'm going with yet.
Some guys that are playing with these engines are adding a single shot of nitrous oxide to them from a whip-it cartridge.
Anyone can have a single shot setup, mine will have 5 or 6 available on a log manifold that I can call up at will
I'm shooting for at least a 50 MPH ride, but who knows?
I started out with another one of these:
Magazine pose
The one in the picture was a very fresh restoration project I carried to the street for the picture shoot in order to not dirty the tires from rolling it there.
It was entered into a local motorcycle show later that day.
I gathered up another one for a two stroke engine conversion then found one that had already been built for the cost of the engine kit.
Fat assed Paul Tuttle from OCC once sat on it too, when the builder and his boy took it to his shop. I might throw the seat away cuz it prolly has cooties now
It was damned near un-rideable and unsafe with only crappy pinch rear brakes and always tossed the chain, so I set out to improve it.
First up was a better rear sprocket mount thru bolted to the wheel hub that didn't rely on the spokes to keep it in place:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/hub-and-sprocket.7904/
The original design used three stamped plates and crappy old muffler hanger rubber sandwiched over the spokes.
The run out and wow was out of control
The next step was to add a bicycle disc rotor to the front wheel because if you are going to get stupid, you will probably need good brakes
https://www.autismforums.com/media/disc-brake-rotor-adapter-hub.11131/
https://www.autismforums.com/media/stingray-brake-rotor.11130/
This was thru bolted as well.
The engine mount was off center and mounted poorly, so I machined spacers to weld into the lower frame tube to prevent crushing it like it originally was, then moved the bolt holes to better position the unit.
The final drive assembly in the works is a jackshaft design that utilizes a Shimano 3 speed planetary rear hub as a transmission with the rear brake rotor on that same assembly to handle rear braking chores.
Most of that is done, but I've yet to take pix of it because it is just a pile of parts so far.
I have flange mounted pillow bearings for the shaft supports.
Because of the planetary coaster hub, I had to get a pull-starter for it, but oh well, I want top end and that negated a pedaled start
The jackshaft will simplify final drive ratio changes as well until I get the final tuning in order.
The 66cc two stroker has been ported to increase efficiency and I added a reed valve assembly to the inlet to kill off the inversion. I butchered the heck out of the piston and cylinder head too.
Gearhead stuff for sure
Not sure which carb I'm going with yet.
Some guys that are playing with these engines are adding a single shot of nitrous oxide to them from a whip-it cartridge.
Anyone can have a single shot setup, mine will have 5 or 6 available on a log manifold that I can call up at will
I'm shooting for at least a 50 MPH ride, but who knows?
The Gnarley-Davidson project:
I started out with another one of these:
Magazine pose
The one in the picture was a very fresh restoration project I carried to the street for the picture shoot in order to not dirty the tires from rolling it there.
It was entered into a local motorcycle show later that day.
I gathered up another one for a two stroke engine conversion then found one that had already been built for the cost of the engine kit.
Fat assed Paul Tuttle from OCC once sat on it too, when the builder and his boy took it to his shop. I might throw the seat away cuz it prolly has cooties now
It was damned near un-rideable and unsafe with only crappy pinch rear brakes and always tossed the chain, so I set out to improve it.
First up was a better rear sprocket mount thru bolted to the wheel hub that didn't rely on the spokes to keep it in place:
https://www.autismforums.com/media/hub-and-sprocket.7904/
The original design used three stamped plates and crappy old muffler hanger rubber sandwiched over the spokes.
The run out and wow was out of control
The next step was to add a bicycle disc rotor to the front wheel because if you are going to get stupid, you will probably need good brakes
https://www.autismforums.com/media/disc-brake-rotor-adapter-hub.11131/
https://www.autismforums.com/media/stingray-brake-rotor.11130/
This was thru bolted as well.
The engine mount was off center and mounted poorly, so I machined spacers to weld into the lower frame tube to prevent crushing it like it originally was, then moved the bolt holes to better position the unit.
The final drive assembly in the works is a jackshaft design that utilizes a Shimano 3 speed planetary rear hub as a transmission with the rear brake rotor on that same assembly to handle rear braking chores.
Most of that is done, but I've yet to take pix of it because it is just a pile of parts so far.
I have flange mounted pillow bearings for the shaft supports.
Because of the planetary coaster hub, I had to get a pull-starter for it, but oh well, I want top end and that negated a pedaled start
The jackshaft will simplify final drive ratio changes as well until I get the final tuning in order.
The 66cc two stroker has been ported to increase efficiency and I added a reed valve assembly to the inlet to kill off the inversion. I butchered the heck out of the piston and cylinder head too.
Gearhead stuff for sure
Not sure which carb I'm going with yet.
Some guys that are playing with these engines are adding a single shot of nitrous oxide to them from a whip-it cartridge.
Anyone can have a single shot setup, mine will have 5 or 6 available on a log manifold that I can call up at will
I'm shooting for at least a 50 MPH ride, but who knows?
Nice restoration. Question- With your shop skills, have you ever built a bicycle frame from complete scratch?
No, the jig work and fit up would likely be very time intensive.
VIP parking
I have this 1200 dialed up a bit too
My turn to have something nice...
No, the jig work and fit up would likely be very time intensive.
I see. Are most bikes now assembled/welded robotically? I'm just often impressed with so many clean welds...
Clean welds always eluded me in metal shop....
Likely yes.I see. Are most bikes now assembled/welded robotically? I'm just often impressed with so many clean welds...
Clean welds always eluded me in metal shop....
I believe all of the Schwinns are now made in China
Freshly restored Linmax 110cc
UV destroyed plastic
Junked out and replacement seat
Stripped down for cleaning
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