Cars and car troubles

[Meistersinger]

I think my '93 Honda Accord is possessed. A while back it had a thing going on where it would all of a sudden be out of brake fluid. I'd add more, and check it regularly...stays constant...and then went out again. The mechanics could find no leaks. This problem stopped several months ago, and has been replaced by the exact same thing happening with the oil. I'm taking it in next week (I have the week off from school) and if they can't find a leak, that's it; I'm returning to the Catholic faith and calling in a priest for an exorcism.

That sounds like the brake master cylinder. I'd start by having that inspected and replaced, if necessary.

 

[Meistersinger]

My 2004 F-150, 4x4, troubles with vibration have returned. Some guy at one shop said it was the solenoids messing up for the 4-wheel drive but this model doesn't have solenoids. The U-joint was checked by three different people, fine. 4 new all season tires, balanced. Rear differential oil replaced. Thought it was fine for 2 weeks, but went on the highway just now to bring the kid somewhere and .... there's the danged vibration starting again at 50 mph.

Searched the internet and found something about the parking break binding up in the rear as possibly causing this. Anyone think it's worth a try getting it in the shop and having them look at the brakes? This is making me stressed-out. Ugh.

How about your tires? Every time I've run into this problem, either the tires weren't balanced properly, the rims are bent, or the tires out of round. I'd still have the breaks checked, as well as your alignment, just to be safe.

 

[Nitro]

I think my '93 Honda Accord is possessed. A while back it had a thing going on where it would all of a sudden be out of brake fluid. I'd add more, and check it regularly...stays constant...and then went out again. The mechanics could find no leaks. This problem stopped several months ago, and has been replaced by the exact same thing happening with the oil. I'm taking it in next week (I have the week off from school) and if they can't find a leak, that's it; I'm returning to the Catholic faith and calling in a priest for an exorcism.

Your brake hydraulics are a closed system. Leaks will occur at any number of points at any line or wheel cylinder. Wheel cylinder,lines,hoses or caliper leaks will be apparent with visible fluid at the point of the leak. I suspect that possibly the cups in the master cylinder have failed and the fluid is being pushed into the vacuum brake booster,which could escape the eyes of an inexperienced technician. I would suggest that the next techie who looks at it should remove the master cylinder mounting bolts and investigate the mounting area for dampness. Lower ambient temperature has a way of hardening rubber that can cause seepage. That would explain why it follows no specific pattern.
Good luck with your dilemma

 

[Nitro]

I wish every one good luck with their cars.

I am fighing mine as well it won't charge, I have tried 4 different alternators but still the same the belt is tight. It will hold a charge if I use a battery charger. I am about to swap the motor with a spare one I have, then rebuild this one.

Give me a rundown on what car I need to provide info for and I will attempt to find the appropriate tests you need to follow. An alternator is a very simple piece of machinery. It make three phase power,uses a diode trio bridge rectifier to make the power DC,needs a regulator and proper connections to work. if I can find a schematic for the car,I can give you very simple tests to try that may only involve a simple tail light testing probe and the colors of the wires to test it. A inexpensive volt meter would be very helpful. Common automotive charging system DC output should be between 13.4 volts to 14.8 volts give or take. 12 volt batteries at rest will give a reading of about 12.5 volts which is considered only a surface charge. Proper testing of a battery involves shunt testing to see if the battery is strong enough to do it's job,a voltage reading can look good but be deceiving because it does not reflect amperage.

 

[Nitro]

How about your tires? Every time I've run into this problem, either the tires weren't balanced properly, the rims are bent, or the tires out of round. I'd still have the breaks checked, as well as your alignment, just to be safe.

I was in contact with Kestrel this afternoon and pointed her in a direction with proper procedures she needs to have addressed. It is my opinion that she is experiencing a driveshaft/propellor shaft universal joint binding situation.
Her people who looked at it have used improper test procedures to attempt to locate the problem.
I know of the quality of technician that are out there because I had many of them employed by me over the years,and just like any profession,there are those who know and those that think they do.

 

[wyverary]

Well, I did get the master cylinder replaced a few months back, in fact, so I guess that solves THAT mystery...

 

[Nitro]

Well, I did get the master cylinder replaced a few months back, in fact, so I guess that solves THAT mystery...

ALL manufacturers make bad parts,especially the rebuilders. A1 Cardone is a rebuilder who pretty much has a lock on sales of rebuilt junk in the USA where they offer what seems like a bargain by price,but offers no value inside of their boxes. Go OEM or with remanufactured,not rebuilt if you want safe parts. Have it investigated again if there are no visible leaks anywhere in the system and find out whose parts they used if possible. Ethelyne Glycol is what brake fluid is made of and never evaporates,so the mystery is still not solved

 

[wyverary]

ALL manufacturers make bad parts,especially the rebuilders. A1 Cardone is a rebuilder who pretty much has a lock on sales of rebuilt junk in the USA where they offer what seems like a bargain by price,but offers no value inside of their boxes. Go OEM or with remanufactured,not rebuilt if you want safe parts. Have it investigated again if there are no visible leaks anywhere in the system and find out whose parts they used if possible. Ethelyne Glycol is what brake fluid is made of and never evaporates,so the mystery is still not solved

So I shouldn't cross the exorcism off my list then?

 

[Nitro]

So I shouldn't cross the exorcism off my list then?

no,not yet

 

[Meistersinger]

ALL manufacturers make bad parts,especially the rebuilders. A1 Cardone is a rebuilder who pretty much has a lock on sales of rebuilt junk in the USA where they offer what seems like a bargain by price,but offers no value inside of their boxes. Go OEM or with remanufactured,not rebuilt if you want safe parts. Have it investigated again if there are no visible leaks anywhere in the system and find out whose parts they used if possible. Ethelyne Glycol is what brake fluid is made of and never evaporates,so the mystery is still not solved

Would you consider rebuilt parts is they were rebuilt from a kit by someone locally who knows what they're doing? For example, I have a cousin who has been rebuilding starters, alternators, generators, etc for the past 50 years. He's pretty much semi-retired nowadays, but he still keeps his hand in the business. He has a reputation around my neck of the woods: if he can't rebuild it back to spec, then you're better off buying OEM. I also had a buddy, who was a mechanic that specialized in rebuilding transmissions and carburetors. Unfortunately, he, and his brother, passed away earlier this year.

 

[Nitro]

Would you consider rebuilt parts is they were rebuilt from a kit by someone locally who knows what they're doing? For example, I have a cousin who has been rebuilding starters, alternators, generators, etc for the past 50 years. He's pretty much semi-retired nowadays, but he still keeps his hand in the business. He has a reputation around my neck of the woods: if he can't rebuild it back to spec, then you're better off buying OEM. I also had a buddy, who was a mechanic that specialized in rebuilding transmissions and carburetors. Unfortunately, he, and his brother, passed away earlier this year.

Those guys are few and far between. Mass brake parts rebuilders have a habit of only replacing the parts that are bad. A1 Cardone was the only choice I had for a very rare set of calipers once. After replacing six of them due to leaks,I went ahead and disassembled one of them to find that the bores were very pitted from rust and instead of resleeving them properly,they only coated them with some type of bullsh*t plastic that did not work for even a minute. I almost threw them thru their window after they refused to accept a part that I took apart as a return. The reman crowd only uses the castings that are good and replaces all of the critical parts. I had an experience with a Jasper engine once where they provided me with an engine that was damaged when they bolted it to a pallet by not paying attention to how it was done. Jasper HAD a fine reputation with my shop until that day. Their rep said that they would not replace it and accused me of causing the damage. I determined that with that attitude,they were not worth the trouble and stopped payment on my check. To even mention Jasper Engines in my presence infuriates me from an event over 20 years ago. We spent another $200 and went OEM on that project...the customer went against my recommendations to do so at the beginning after being wooed by a better warranty.
Local transmission shops are a hit and miss,depending on the people who are employed there. I never had any starters or alternators rebuilt because I could do them myself. I installed too many carburetors that were faulty from supposed reputable companies and only trusted my own work if I wanted them right.
I am no longer in that business, the huge corporations are all the rage for suppliers now,and I can only assume that nothing has improved. After my stint in the repair business,I returned to my roots of machining and mechanical engineering. I hate junk parts

 

[Warwick C]

Thanks for that Nitro. I have a volt meter and a multiple light tester. I recently had to replace the ignition switch, But I doubt that should cause it.

 

[Nitro]

Thanks for that Nitro. I have a volt meter and a multiple light tester. I recently had to replace the ignition switch, But I doubt that should cause it.

photograph the alternator that is in the car if possible so I can positively identify the connections...it would also help me if I saw one out of the car. It follows the patterns of most alts that are used,there are only be three connections,the charging output,the field excitation wiring and the cancel no charging light/ammeter connection depending on whether it has gauges or idiot lights on the dash. The output wire will be the largest of them and will show battery voltage at all times. A test light applied to it should illuminate under any condition. Field excitation (terminal 1) will only be powered up when the ignition is on to make the field a magnet to begin the charging process. Terminal 2 appears to be the verify charging wire that will only power up to cancel the light or provide current to the light/ammeter/voltmeter depending on how your particular car is built. If you can positively identify the terminal 2 wire,unhook it and apply battery voltage to it the wire that should drive whatever method they use for handles the event.

 

[Warwick C]

I will take a photo of one for you Nitro I have a spare of the same brand. Terminal 2 is a spade terminal and the other 2 bolt on.

 

[Nitro]

Here is a picture of my Power Probe II powered test light I use for automotive electrical systems. It has two interchangeable test probes for easy access to wiring. I can hook it directly to the car's battery or thru the power port/cigar lighter to power it up. There is a momentary switch on the probe to change the polarity of the sharp tip from DC+ to DC- that is also protected with a 20 ampere circuit breaker. The probe has an LED headlamp for working in dark areas. My kit has an extension cord that allows it to be used on over the road tractor trailer combinations that can span 18 meters or 60 feet. The probe also carries a battery - lead to verify if a ground is at fault. The average Joe may never need these capabilities,but I found it to be invaluable in diagnostic work as it simplifies the entire process of elimination.

 

[Nitro]

The front line of my diagnostic arsenal is my OTC Genesys scan tool. It can access OBDII diagnostic codes,run a full screen data stream of the engine management system,run full diagnostics on anti-lock braking systems,air bag systems,controller area network bus wiring(very similar to usd ports).It has a screen capture button to save readings and can be hooked to my PC and movies of snapshots can be reviewed in the shop instead of reading it while driving. My scanner is also equipped with a four trace colored digital sampling oscilloscope,capabilities of running combinations of scopes and multimeter functions in real time. I use oscilloscopes to ensure accuracy of measurements and on board diagnostics II requires you to use the scan tool functions. My former repair shop was focused on electronic diagnostics and in true autistic fashion,it was necessary to take it over the top. It got real lonely at the top when my mentors became my students and I had no one else left to call for advice. I have invested about $8500 in this puppy and it is outdated already.

 

[Nitro]

My Genesys package

 

[Warwick C]

The number 2 terminal is to the lower right in the car , You can just see the red insulation on the spade terminal

 

[Warwick C]

This is my test light with the motor runing it only indicates 12.5 V, I also have a multimeter as well.

 

[Nitro]

I could not find a schematic that has any detail. The blue wire should be hot at all times connected thru the starter connection. It appears to be a self excited unit,which would leave the last terminal to drive the light/gauge depending on how the car is built. There will be voltage present on that terminal of the alternator if it is producing current while it is running. If not.suspect a bad alternator or the internal regulator that has fried. If you have an alternator,starter repair shop nearby,they should be able to test your units that are off the car before you try to install one of them. If the shop is a good one and it is a regulator,they may be able to provide you with one if needed or fix an alternator if that is the culprit Keep me informed of your test results and if necessary,I can ask a shop near by me to look it up in their database to give you an exacting procedure early in the week