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For those who drive, what was your first vehicle?

I've driven on ice and snow a hand full of times. It doesn't snow that often in Texas,but icey roads are fairly common in the wintertime. As a last resort on icy roads, I'll put on my snow chains. In my experience snow chains make getting traction on ice much easier at the expense of your tires. Because snow chains will chew up rubber tires like its nothing.
The best ice traction tire I ever experienced was a sawdust recap snow tire. They didn't last very long,but there was nothing out there that would beat them on ice.
 
As far my driving teacher go. They weren't certified at all, as my granddad and grandpa taught me how To drive after my mom and dad got frustrated at me. I can vividly recall driving my granddad's 1951 Willis hunting jeep up and down the back roads of the hills of east Texas.

Tell that to the snowbanks of Upper Michigan! ;)

I'm sure my tires were always inadequate. As were my driving teachers!
 
A Swedish Gislaved branded tire sold by Continental for ice has a tread compound that is riddled with pores that open up as the tread wears to expose new places for grip on icy surfaces.
 
The early 2.2 liter Chrysler product engines had a timing belt that usually grenaded at 70,000 miles,had poor wearing camshafts and were plagued with carburetor problems due to their lean factory settings to reduce exhaust emissions.
 
Interesting.granddad would only use snow chains as a last resort. I've seen at auto parts stores these cables that go around the tire like a traditional chain but they are susposed less harsh on the rubber tire. I do t have any experience with them but i must say that they look kind of neat.

The best ice traction tire I ever experienced was a sawdust recap snow tire. They didn't last very long,but there was nothing out there that would beat them on ice.
 
In my earliest experiences with American built cars up until the end of the 70s to mid 80s, a car or truck was considered worthless at 70,000 miles because the engine was shot by then. If you had a car that went 100,000 miles it was considered a miracle.
 
Interesting.granddad would only use snow chains as a last resort. I've seen at auto parts stores these cables that go around the tire like a traditional chain but they are susposed less harsh on the rubber tire. I do t have any experience with them but i must say that they look kind of neat.
Chains had to be removed when there was no snow because they wore too fast.A loose tire chain will shred the body metal too. All I ever saw a cable deal do was break.
Tungsten carbide studded tires were the answer for a while here in the snowy country that worked well,but had date restrictions as to when you could have them on a vehicle because they tore up the roadways.
 
Tungsten carbide studded tire seem awful expensive, especially here in Texas. It reminds me soon I will have to replace the tires on my camper.

Chains had to be removed when there was no snow because they wore too fast.A loose tire chain will shred the body metal too. All I ever saw a cable deal do was break.
Tungsten carbide studded tires were the answer for a while here in the snowy country that worked well,but had date restrictions as to when you could have them on a vehicle because they tore up the roadways.
 
How do you feel about dealers who won't tell you a component is or has outright failed, but simply "suggest" replacing it? They are likely covering their own liability, but in the process are they truly being honest, or simply scavenging for unnecessary and often expensive repairs?

(My cousin seems to be told to replace her Toyota water pumps on a shockingly routine basis.)

It sounds like guessing to me. If you throw enough parts at it, for a long enough time, eventually you might fix it.
 
The dealerships are hurting now because most of the time they only get warranty work and they feel they have to up the profits any way possible. Too bad it is the customer that has to bear that cross.

A suggested sale in my shop consisted of offering to change a component such as a water pump when changing a timing belt. Either pay me labor once or take your chances on it. In an independent shop,an crook will get outed really fast,where if you do a job properly,the customer will tell his friends. If not,they will broadcast to the county ;)
One of the best business models I chose was to carefully explain the entire repair in a language that was readily understood without a lot of technical babble.That drove the trust up with female customers who would recommend my place to their friends who felt that other places were running a scam on them.

Another service I offered was free replacement of turn signal or marker lamp bulbs. When the wife was sent to have it taken care of,instead of having to be the bearer of bad news after we handled that small chore for nothing,it gained the business respect and brought return business as a result of spending a couple dollars worth of time and a $.50 part.

Agreed. On the Cat forklifts with a Mitsubishi engine, it takes a lot of work to change the water pump or the timing belt. Nether part is very expensive and they are right together. It just does not make any sense to change one and not the other. You just have to make sure that the customer understands that. I will often do small repairs or adjustments for no charge. The customers like it and that counts. It is very, very important that the customer is happy with me, every time.
 
I'm fond of happy clients, well my boss is. I'm fond when the client knows who did the work and let's just say it ain't the bossman.


That's for sure. You can't even find a decent used car now with less than 100,000 miles. That's why I jumped on the Crown Vic when I saw it, because it's an '05 that had 73,000. You don't see low mileage like that on a ten-year-old car let alone one with a police package,


Agreed. On the Cat forklifts with a Mitsubishi engine, it takes a lot of work to change the water pump or the timing belt. Nether part is very expensive and they are right together. It just does not make any sense to change one and not the other. You just have to make sure that the customer understands that. I will often do small repairs or adjustments for no charge. The customers like it and that counts. It is very, very important that the customer is happy with me, every time.
 
It sounds like guessing to me. If you throw enough parts at it, for a long enough time, eventually you might fix it.
That's what separates the mechanics from the true technicians. I call 'em parts changers.

I tell a rather humorous story about a Chevrolet product that ran very poorly when the coolant temperature was below 30 degrees F. It appeared to run excessively rich,so I investigated the fuel pressure first.I only had about a two minute timeframe before the coolant temp rose and the problem went away,so I had to work on the car outside in winter weather just to diagnose it. Typical throttle body fuel rail pressures for throttle body injection across all of the big three makers was a consistent 9-11 PSI. My test was showed a 32 PSI reading which sounded odd,because it wasn't normal and would cause an over-rich condition that was often the case of either a crimped return line or a stuck pressure regulator.

I hit my library of books and found two conflicting pressure stats,one book showed the usual 9-11 PSI and the other a 32-34 PSI rating. Still not convinced as to which book was correct,I hit the local Chevy garage and asked their head line tech what was correct. He told me that it was 9-11 PSI and if I didn't know that by now,I had no business opening the hood on a motor vehicle. I asked to see it in a GM factory manual. He got bent out of shape and pointed me in the direction of the service manager's office to take a look. I had never seen that 4 inch thick book,so I was looking in the index for the spec page.A few minutes later,Red stormed into the office and snatched the book out of my hands,flipped the pages to the spec chart and recited the 32-34 PSI to me. I said thanks and left,really pissed off.

As it turns out,upon further investigation of the ignition secondary voltage with my oscilloscope, a coil pack indicated that it was breaking down in the cold when the voltage requirements were up from firing a richer mixture when the engine block was below 30 F. I replaced both of the coil packs because they were in a miserable place on the rear of the engine and didn't want the comeback if the other one failed soon afterwards.

When I was satisfied that the car was repaired,I had the customer return to pick it up. I asked them what shop was the one that had changed all of the tuneup parts before they brought the car to me. The old tuneup parts hold all of the clues to what was the cause of the original problem,but since they were all replaced,the clues were gone. They told me it was Bodgewic Chevrolet and that the man who did the work was Red,the factory trained professional parts changer :p
 
It's a little different but in my occupation I've met guys that can barely read a tape measure and guy that could build a house single handed. To me it goes to show just having a certification automatically make you good technician, or contractor.

Beside unless you can drive a 16 penny nail completely with out missing and under 4 swings you can't call you're self a true framer.;) That's one of the things I like about auto repair is that can apply to other fields.



That's what separates the mechanics from the true technicians. I call 'em parts changers.

I tell a rather humorous story about a Chevrolet product that ran very poorly when the coolant temperature was below 30 degrees F. It appeared to run excessively rich,so I investigated the fuel pressure first.I only had about a two minute timeframe before the coolant temp rose and the problem went away,so I had to work on the car outside in winter weather just to diagnose it. Typical throttle body fuel rail pressures for throttle body injection across all of the big three makers was a consistent 9-11 PSI. My test was showed a 32 PSI reading which sounded odd,because it wasn't normal and would cause an over-rich condition that was often the case of either a crimped return line or a stuck pressure regulator.

I hit my library of books and found two conflicting pressure stats,one book showed the usual 9-11 PSI and the other a 32-34 PSI rating. Still not convinced as to which book was correct,I hit the local Chevy garage and asked their head line tech what was correct. He told me that it was 9-11 PSI and if I didn't know that by now,I had no business opening the hood on a motor vehicle. I asked to see it in a GM factory manual. He got bent out of shape and pointed me in the direction of the service manager's office to take a look. I had never seen that 4 inch thick book,so I was looking in the index for the spec page.A few minutes later,Red stormed into the office and snatched the book out of my hands,flipped the pages to the spec chart and recited the 32-34 PSI to me. I said thanks and left,really pissed off.

As it turns out,upon further investigation of the ignition secondary voltage with my oscilloscope, a coil pack indicated that it was breaking down in the cold when the voltage requirements were up from firing a richer mixture when the engine block was below 30 F. I replaced both of the coil packs because they were in a miserable place on the rear of the engine and didn't want the comeback if the other one failed soon afterwards.

When I was satisfied that the car was repaired,I had the customer return to pick it up. I asked them what shop was the one that had changed all of the tuneup parts before they brought the car to me. The old tuneup parts hold all of the clues to what was the cause of the original problem,but since they were all replaced,the clues were gone. They told me it was Bodgewic Chevrolet and that the man who did the work was Red,the factory trained professional parts changer :p
 
It's a little different but in my occupation I've met guys that can barely read a tape measure and guy that could build a house single handed. To me it goes to show just having a certification automatically make you good technician, or contractor.

Beside unless you can drive a 16 penny nail completely with out missing and under 4 swings you can't call you're self a true framer.;) That's one of the things I like about auto repair is that can apply to other fields.
When I was a puppy,I moonlighted for cash in a Boron station during the evening hours after the garage closed. I wasn't able to work for Boron directly because they would only hire workers with the then NIASE certifications that were used to claim yourself as a certified mechanic. I did the jobs that the daylight shift with the certs couldn't handle because they didn't know their stuff :D
 
It's funny how that works. Do you have any NIASE certifications? I have "get out of jail free" card in my wallet. Does that count?

When I was a puppy,I moonlighted for cash in a Boron station during the evening hours after the garage closed. I wasn't able to work for Boron directly because they would only hire workers with the then NIASE certifications that were used to claim yourself as a certified mechanic. I did the jobs that the daylight shift with the certs couldn't handle because they didn't know their stuff :D
 
It's funny how that works. Do you have any NIASE certifications? I have "get out of jail free" card in my wallet. Does that count?

Na,never needed them. I was working in the high tech sector back then and only did the side gigs for the cash dollar. I hardly ever kept one job at a time because I was greedy :D
NIASE went by the wayside. It is now called ASE for automotive service excellence. The tests are a joke and were so narrow and stupid they are about useless. Any good auto techie relies on networking to learn,and there aren't many good books to learn the job. I have always said that people that know the job and can do the work excel at it. Those that know the job but can't do the work teach it. Those that don't know the job and can't do the work usually write the book about it :D
 
Well luck for you you're good company. I have zero certifications other than a GED. :D



Na,never needed them. I was working in the high tech sector back then and only did the side gigs for the cash dollar. I hardly ever kept one job at a time because I was greedy :D
NIASE went by the wayside. It is now called ASE for automotive service excellence. The tests are a joke and were so narrow and stupid they are about useless. Any good auto techie relies on networking to learn,and there aren't many good books to learn the job. I have always said that people that know the job and can do the work excel at it. Those that know the job but can't do the work teach it. Those that don't know the job and can't do the work usually write the book about it :D
 
Nothing wrong with not having a formal education if you are willing to educate yourself ;)
 
Well somebody got to educate me and the public school education system already tried. :p After all I've got to get my smarts from somewhere.


Nothing wrong with not having a formal education if you are willing to educate yourself ;)
 

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